The History of Dartmoor in 10 Objects – a talk by Andy Crabb
Andy’s talk took us from the bone caves at Buckfastleigh 125,000 years ago to the present resurgence in the growth of the cider industry, bringing along as well some of the artefacts found among Dartmoor’s 3,500 scheduled monuments.
The Joint Mintnor cave had revealed many bones of that period, including those of the 11 ton straight tusked elephant, a vegetarian browsing in the warmth of the abundant forests. By the Mesolithic period, just 14,000 years ago, in the stable climate of the post Ice Age, hunter gatherers were on the scene. Evidence exists from Whiddon Down of a very advanced society with cutting tools and organic clothing
A Neolithic hand axe found at Postbridge was passed around, more evidence of further sophistication as farming began to develop. The peat bogs were expanding and monuments appeared – stone circles, tor enclosures, dolmens like Spinsters Rock – all perhaps meeting places or symbols of power – maybe the first such built in the UK.
One of the most astonishing recent archaeological finds dating to the Bronze Age was at Whitehorse Hill. Excavation of a burial cist had revealed bones and items from an elaborate burial – beads, wooden studs wrapped in a brown bear pelt. We await now too the results of the latest discovery of a log coffin on Cut Hill. Hoofprints in the soil have given us further proof from the middle Bronze Age of cattle, ponies, sheep and badger, as hill farming and enclosures (reaves) began to take over.
The period that followed saw the abandonment of the high moor as humans settled on the fringes. Lydford was an example of a 10th century fortified settlement, creating its mint of 1 million silver pennies. A lot of these have since been found in Scandinavia, remnants of payments for Danegeld. A strategic location, it had its own castle and jail. Excavations at Widecombe have revealed remains of the ancient manor of North Hall with its ditch and moat. Pottery found here is believed to have come from Eastern Europe and China.
The Moor is littered with the remains of the tin industry, from the early stream working of the 12th century through to the later open cast.workings. Hardly a river course has been spared the efforts of these workers, their tin mills, blowing houses, leats, wheel pits, mortar and mould stones abound, uniquely just here and on Bodmin Moor. Later, the stone workers take over in their quarries with unfinished items like granite rollers and troughs still found today. More recently we see evidence of the “improvers” – railways, canals, turnpikes and china clay.
Andy finished his talk with the mention of Dartmoor cider and its use of horsepower, Old apple crushers and troughs can still be seen, evidence from a lively industry supplied by produce from local orchards.
Enhanced by items he brought along such as an arrowhead, a stone cutters jumper tool, a silver penny and a Bronze Age axe, Andy produced a stunning talk of the varied archaeology of the Moor.
Excursions in the Tamar Valley – a talk by Helen Wilson
The Ashburton Hotel 1890 (Francis Frith collection)
Through her large collection of old postcards, created by various famous photographers including Valentine, Frith and Harris (mostly from around the end of the 19th / early 20th centuries), Helen led us on a nostalgic journey around the river valley. On her pictorial map she highlighted the points on the river where people made their way by various means including on foot and by ferry and paddle steamer.
Foot perambulations often started on the Hoe and an early card image by Valentine depicting Smeaton’s Tower and people thronging around the bandstand captures the moment perfectly. More cards show the Cremyll Ferry and points of interest at Mt. Edgcumbe, from where a steamer would have taken the walkers on to Antony Passage and Forder, stopping for refreshments at Apple Tree Cottage Tea Gardens. More tea stops in Saltash and back across the river by ferry. A Western Morning News advert as early as 1860 announces trips on the steamer “Fairey” to the tea and fruit gardens of the West, all for the price of one shilling!
Steamer trips left from Phoenix Wharf, with images from the 1880’s showing Promenade and West Hoe piers, several steamers queuing up and the “Eleanor” setting off. The battleship HMS Hood is seen in a scene at North Corner. At Weir Quay, fishing nets are seen drying on the shore and an ales and tea stop came next on the agenda at the Tamar Hotel in Holes Hole. Past Pentillie Quay and on through “the Windings” to the Ashburton Hotel at Danescombe with its market gardens and then the rather more industrialised area of the Calstock shipyards and more refreshments at the Ferry/ Passage Inn across the river. An image of the old ferry here is pertinent given the current interest of resurrecting the service, albeit an electric one.
Steamers were able to continue upriver past Buttspill Woods to the ancient port of Morwellham – an image is seen of the area still working in 1870 with inclined planes and tramways clearly visible. A later one by Frith in 1906 post closure is a much quieter scene. A card from 1911 is interesting, still showing lime kilns and the workers houses at New Quay. Journeys ended at Weir Head. Helen showed several images here, one of the old Dukes Drive which closely followed the riverbank and others by Madge of Morwell Rocks and a steamer passing underneath. The terminus at Gunnislake Weir and the line of the Manure Navigation Canal can also be seen in a card from 1931.
It is clear from Helen’s talk and stunning postcard images how popular it became for people at that time to undertake such journeys, linking their walks around the Tamar valley with ferries and steamers, with many opportunities for stopping for refreshments along the way. Although still popular and busy, the area is vastly different today.
Sabine Baring Gould of Lewtrenchard – a talk by Vanni Cook
Sabine B-G was born in Exeter in 1834 and died in 1924. He was many things including : an Anglican priest, Vicar, Hagiographer, Theologian, Hymn Writer, Antiquarian, Historian, Archaeologist, Popular Novelist, Poet, Gatherer/Collector of Folklore and Folk Music, Father, Husband, Friend, Family History Researcher, Conservationist, Environmentalist, Geologist and Recycler.
Vanni’s talk explored his family background and personality wondering why, despite all his interests, he seems to have been somewhat overlooked compared to his contemporaries. He had graduated at Cambridge University (BA Arts), spent time at Hurst Pierrepoint and Clare Colleges, plus a spell in Iceland studying their sagas, before being ordained as a Mission Priest in 1865. He served as a Curate in Dalton, Yorkshire, was married a year later to Grace and their first child, one of fifteen, was born in 1869.
He inherited the family estate of Lewtrenchard upon the death of his father in 1872 and began the restoration of the church 5 years later. After becoming the Squarson in 1881, he continued further works to the church and remodelling of the manor house well into his later years.
His personality was shaped, said Vanni, by bronchitis, a patchy education (though he was fluent in 5 languages), a controlling but inquisitive father, a hatred of sport, loyalty to friends and family and a great sense of humour, with a nickname of “Snout”. This was evident in character roles he played at college and letters he wrote during his many travels. He brought back a souvenir from Iceland, a pony called Bottlebrush! He also loved word play of any kind and this is shown through his love of witty anecdotes and local dialect.
As a writer he had over 1,200 publications and was credited by J.M. Barrie as being one of the top ten novelists of his day, also attracting reviews from George Bernard Shaw. Red Spider (1887) regarded by the author as his finest work, draws on his interest in rural life, folklore, and mythology.history. As a play it was performed over 100 times around the country.
In 1864 he founded the “Brig Mission” at Horbury Bridge in Wakefield, a church school, still going today. In the following year, after buying a plot of land, he founded a new mission church and school – this building still stands and is now part of the present school site. It was here too that he composed the hymn “Onward Christian Soldiers,” as a song for children marching up the hill to the church.
He founded other Christian schools and furthered education especially for women. The love of his family and loyalty to friends and employees was also highly regarded. His kindness is evidenced in the scores of letters to and from school mistresses, employees and associates.
Overall, a fascinating man.